Back in the late 2000s, when I first visited Goa, I was truly mesmerized. Goa back then was all about warmth, simplicity, and authenticity. I didn’t limit my trip to just its famous beaches but explored the lesser-known areas, feeling every bit of the state’s charm. Since then, I have returned many times, for both work and pleasure. But over the years, things began to change, and not always for the better. Around four or five years ago, I decided to limit my visits to business trips only. Here is why I made that decision.
- We Don’t Want Indians” – Really?
One evening, years ago, I walked into a Goan restaurant that was almost empty, hoping to enjoy a meal. However, the owner flat-out refused to seat me, saying, “We don’t want Indians here.” His reason? According to him, Indians are tough bargainers and don’t spend as freely as foreigners. This was a time when Russians and other international tourists were arriving in large numbers. He felt Indians didn’t fit into his vision of Goa’s future. This, “You Indians”, phrase stayed with me. Not only was it offensive, but it ignored the fact that Indian tourists had been, and continue to be, the majority of visitors to Goa. It was a disappointing reminder that the place was becoming less welcoming.
- Local Cab Monopoly – A Traveler’s Nightmare
Goa is notorious for its cab situation. Public transport options are sparse, and the local cab operators have a tight grip on the market. To put it mildly, taking a cab in Goa can often cost more than a flight ticket to get there! In tourist hotspots like Goa, visitors expect convenience, but the cab fares are high, and drivers often refuse to negotiate. It’s not uncommon to be charged a round-trip fare, even if you’re only going one way. In a state that attracts tourists from all over, the absence of a reliable public transport system or affordable cabs is a serious drawback. The lack of autos and buses for tourists just compounds the issue. How can a major travel destination in India still lag so far behind?
- The Divide Between North and South Goa
North Goa is popular with Indian tourists, while South Goa is often preferred by foreigners and wealthier Indian travelers. Unfortunately, many local businesses and residents in South Goa don’t extend the same warm welcome to Indian tourists as they do to foreigners. I felt this chilly reception during my very first visit while on a recce for a film project. Though I was welcomed in a five-star resort, as soon as I ventured out, the unwelcoming attitude was evident. Over the years, this divide has only grown, making me question if Goa is really worth all the hype.
- **So Many Better Options Out There
As I travelled more, I found other destinations – Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Gujarat, Puducherry, and even places outside India like Malaysia – that offered better experiences. These places are often more affordable, friendly, and provide smoother local transportation. For a traveler, feeling welcomed and at ease is essential. Without that, the magic of a destination quickly fades, no matter how picturesque it may be.
- You Can Still Enjoy Goa – If Money’s No Object
Goa does have two distinct worlds now. If you are able to splurge on a luxury stay, your experience is likely to be more positive. Upscale hotels and resorts treat guests very well, offering a different level of service and comfort. However, for travelers on a budget, Goa can feel like a different place altogether, with fewer amenities and a less welcoming attitude. Not everyone can afford a lavish holiday, but in Goa, this divide between budget and luxury is striking.
- Goa, I Still Love You and Wish You the Best
As the executive editor of a travel supplement for a leading Gujarati newspaper, I continue to write about Goa, focusing on the positives. I believe the unfavorable experiences I have had come from a select few and don’t reflect Goa’s true spirit. However, changes are needed. Goa’s charm can be revived if it becomes more affordable, friendly, and accessible to all. With these changes, Goa can continue to be a beloved destination for generations to come.
Let us hope the current debates around these issues encourage the Goan authorities to take positive steps. A little improvement could go a long way in restoring Goa’s magic.
Hello. I am Sanjay V. Shah. I live in Mumbai, India. I am a journalist and an author since 1995. I have been associated with leading Gujarati and English publications since the very beginning of my career.
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